Complete Guide to Getting Started in Macro Photography

Macro photography is one of the most visually spectacular photographic specialties.

It allows us to see details that normally go unnoticed by the human eye and which fascinate us to see so close.

If you want to know about this type of photography, in this article we will create an initiation guide.

We’ll go over point by point what it is, what material you need and how to learn to master the technique.

Here we go!

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Macro Photography

This is a type of photography where the size of the photographed subject or object in the image is the same as the actual sensor size of the photographic device.

It is often used to photograph animals or very large objects reduced, mainly insects, plants, flowers or minerals.

The prefix macro-, means big or very big.

Therefore, macro photography will allow us to obtain large images of very small elements.

Beware, because they say that the photographer who decides to specialize in this subgenre of photography runs the risk of ‘getting hooked’.

The truth is that the majority of photography fans end up being interested in trying macro photography, and even more so those who love small details.

Are you one of them?

Equipment Needed in Macro Photography

To practice macro photography you will need some basic equipment.

Although there will be optional materials that will serve you or not depending on the type of photo or subject/object you photograph.

There are different price ranges and some cheaper alternatives for those who decide to start in this type of photography.

However, I’m telling you that macro photography is an exclusive hobby and you’ll understand it when you see the prices.

However, remember that we always have the option of opting for homemade gadgets and the second-hand market.

1. Camera

The first thing you’re going to need, obviously, is a camera.

You can opt for an SLR camera or a camera without a mirror.

It is true that many compact cameras have a macro scene mode, represented by a flower icon.

However, the macro mode offered by these cameras is not a real macro but a fictitious one.

If you’re thinking about getting your first digital camera and need some advice, take a look at these articles.

Remember that you should not choose the best camera on the market but the most suitable camera for you.

2. Macro Lense

The main tool to get good captures within this genus is a macro lens.

If you have a good budget, this is the most recommended option.

The price of a macro lens can vary depending on the brand and focal length, but if you want a medium quality one the price will be around 400-800 euros.

Macro lenses usually have a focal length between 50 mm and 200 mm.

Although we would consider macro telephoto lenses, which range from 150 mm to 200 mm.

The greater the focus, as with any lens, the greater the distance you can be from the subject.

Although the price of the target will also increase, and a lot.

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3. Economic Alternatives to a Macro Lense

If you can’t afford to buy a lens or you’re still not sure if macro photography is your thing, there are more affordable alternatives.

I am referring, for example, to the extension tubes and the approach lenses.

The first ones are placed between the camera body and the lens to increase the focal length.

Meanwhile, the lenses are filters that act as a magnifying glass and, depending on the number of dioptres they have, will magnify the subject more or less.

You can also opt for lens reversal which basically consists of taking pictures with the lens turned inside out by using reversal rings.

All these alternatives will allow you to take macro photographs with good results, but never comparable to those you will achieve with a macro lens.

4. Tripod

Using a tripod is a must in macro photography and choosing a good one for this genre will be the key.

First, find one that’s heavy and sturdy.

Think that any vibration can ruin your picture, so we need it to be stable and not vulnerable to external agents.

Try to make the central column removable so that it can be placed horizontally or even inverted and have access to any position we need.

Finally, choose one whose legs are not joined at the centre and are able to open from different angles to adapt to uneven terrain.

As for the ball-and-socket joint, the most appropriate for macro is the zipper one, because it allows a millimetric control of the plane.

The focus rails also provide you with very precise movements to achieve good focus stacks, which we will explain later.

You can also choose to buy a mini tripod or the alternative of the bean bag, to be able to make shots at ground level.

However, always make sure that the method you choose is effective and that it will be able to support the weight of your camera.

5. Flash

As we will see later, lighting in macro photography is essential and having a flash will be important.

If you have an external flash, it is best to remove it from the hot shoe and if you use the one that comes integrated you will have to bounce the direction of the light to make it effective.

We need the light from the flash, instead of coming from above, to fall on the photographed object in a frontal way.

For macro photography, there are specific flashes such as the ring flash, and if you want to do macro photography, you will have to get one of these.

It is a circular flash, placed just in front of the lens.

It has the advantage of more uniform illumination and, even if the element is very close to the lens, there will be no shadows on it.

6. Remote Trigger

When we do macro photography we must avoid the maximum trepidation and if we do not touch the camera when we make the capture better.

To reduce the possibility of movement as much as possible, we can use the camera’s self-timer.

However, the remote trigger option is the most comfortable and fastest, especially if you are going to use one or more flashes

7. Other Interesting Accessories

There are plenty of specific accessories for macro photography that you can find on the market.

Many of them can be made at home, as small reflectors or backgrounds.

You can use cardboard or aluminum foil to create them easily.

When you take pictures outdoors, a large cardboard can serve as a windbreak so that the air doesn’t ruin the clarity of your photos.

Finally, a soft, insulating mat can also be very helpful in making you a little more comfortable if you get into certain positions.

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Techniques for Macro Photography

There are several important aspects that we must prioritize when setting up our camera and performing macro photography.

As you may have guessed, just because of the materials we just told you are essential, focus is going to be the key.

Although there are more aspects that we should take into account.

#1. Camera

Placement The first thing you need to do is select your subject and set up the tripod and camera at the right height.

If the position is going to be too complicated for you to handle the camera controls, you may want to set up the camera a priori.

The most recommendable thing is that you place the camera at the same height as the photographed element and as parallel as possible to it.

This will make it easier for you to get a clearer picture of the object in question.

#2. Diaphragm Aperture

Macro lenses are usually very bright, so they have diaphragms that can be opened up to f 1.4 and similar.

It is your choice to choose the depth of field you want in your photographs, but you should be aware of a couple of things.

A more open diaphragm (low f-number) will give us less clear area.

The ends are usually not good and objective as 50mm f 1.8 tend to show chromatic aberrations if you open the diaphragm to the maximum.

If you close the aperture a step or two, the depth of field will be virtually the same, but you will have sharper pictures and avoid aberrations to a large extent.

On the other hand, a closer diaphragm (high f-number) will give us less light.

I’m sure you’ve already thought of this, but if you want to have a greater depth of field, you must close the aperture at f 8 or f 11.

#3. ISO Sensitivity and Shutter Speed

It is best to use an ISO sensitivity as low as possible.

By using a tripod you will have the highest stability and minimal trepidation, so you can increase the shutter speed with ease.

However, this advice will only be useful if you photograph indoors with an inanimate object.

Even if you use a tripod, if you’re outside, the wind can move a flower or an insect can change position.

The light will also vary as the sun advances, a cloud passes or there is a shortage of light.

In these cases, you will have to play with the shutter speed and risk a little more by raising the ISO

#4. Extra Lighting

Macro lenses usually have apertures that can be opened a lot, but what if the light is poor or we use one of the other alternatives to do macro photography? Exactly, we’ll need points of light to help us.

Natural light helps you get more “realistic” results, however, not being able to control it can make it more difficult to work with.

Try to get close to a window or take the pictures outdoors, looking for sunny days.

If you choose to use the built-in flash or the external flash of the hot shoe, unwanted shadows will most likely appear on the photographed subject.

You can avoid this problem by using a diffuser or by changing the direction of the light (bouncing it, for example), so that it illuminates the element more evenly.

Although, as I told you before, the ring flash is the most advisable for macro photography.

Its main advantage over other types of lighting is that the light reaches the subject from many different points and in a very uniform manner.

#5. Manual Focus

Once we have the camera set up, the parameters selected and the light we need, it’s time to focus.

This is undoubtedly the most difficult part, since any error, however small, can lead to the loss of focus and the ruin of the capture.

Always work in manual focus mode.

If you have an SLR, it is advisable to raise the mirror on your camera or to use the live view mode.

Take all possible precautions to avoid unwanted movements.

Now, in live view mode you can zoom in as much as possible and manually focus on the area you want to highlight.

Remember that if you can’t focus the whole element you can use focus bracketing.

With this technique you can take different shots of the same scene with different points of focus.

You can then merge them into a single photograph where the main element appears perfectly sharp.

Themes for Macro Photography

When it comes to macro photography you have many options to explore, but perhaps we can classify them into two groups:

1. Photographing Animals, Plants or Small Objects

This is the premise of insect photography and photography of flora (plants, flowers) although you can also focus on small elements and create photographs with them.

Look for everyday objects such as buttons, coins, miniatures or models.

You can also work on jewellery and costume jewellery photography, within the field of product photography.

2. Photographing Anything Up Close

This is an option that can also be interesting.

It’s true that, to photograph small things, you usually have to get close to them.

But I mean looking for details, textures or even trying to bring elements of your everyday life into the abstract by decontextualising them.

Think of how a few drops of water, the sponginess of a chocolate mousse or the roughness of tree wood would look up close.

Composition Macro Photography

As in all other disciplines of photography, composition is very important in macro shots.

In general, if you photograph things up close, you tend to fill in the frame with them.

On the other hand, if you look for smaller subjects it will be more difficult to fill the whole composition.

Pay special attention to aspects such as the background you choose, contrast, color and perspective.

Of course, you can break these “rules” as much as you want.

What is very important is that you identify very well the main subject of your photograph and try to place it in an interesting position within the frame.

Photographic composition rules such as the rule of thirds, area ratio or dynamic symmetry can also be applied in macro photography.

Usually, following them will help you get images visually attractive.

Although, you must bear in mind that, in this field, patience will be your best ally to achieve good compositions.

Post Processing for Macro Photography

You can use programs like Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop to process your images.

First, you can open your RAW image and reframe the composition (if necessary).

Next, the three aspects that you should prioritize when developing your macro photographs are the correction of the exposure, the color balance and the sharpness.

As you know, in macro photography, achieving full clarity of the photographed subject can be very difficult in some situations.

That’s why, when we were talking about manual focusing, we recommended using the technique of focus bracketing.

Now it’s time to merge those images to make your element completely clear.

You can use programs such as Adobe Photoshop, Helicon Focus or the free alternative CombineZM.

Macro Photography: The Greatness of Small Details

Admit it, after reading the guide about macro photography, you’ve started to get the itch…

If you want to start, you don’t need to make a big investment at first.

You can start by investing in the economic alternatives we have mentioned and making your own home accessories.

It is worth trying new genres of photography when we have already learned to master others.

So, dare to embark on the search for the little things.

Macro photography is one of those disciplines full of challenges and possibilities, and that has a lot of magic because it reveals a different world that, nevertheless, can be within our reach.

Furthermore, it can even be considered the photographic equivalent of yoga or meditation.

We have already talked about this type of photography on several occasions, including a complete guide in three episodes and numerous articles on lighting in macro photography, the different possibilities in terms of accessories that exist, how to choose the ideal lens for macro photography, how to do it with inverted lenses and even how to set up a home studio.

We also reviewed the basics of macro photography so we recommend you review it as well, but this time we are going to focus on offering you a series of tips and tricks to improve your results, especially if you are starting with macro photography.

So let’s get to it.

The best place and time

Although any subject is good for this type of photo (and sometimes you just have to get closer to discover surprising things that often go unnoticed), if you like macro photography it’s very likely that one of your favorite subjects is insects, those tiny animals that are very surprising up close.

And of course you are also interested in flowers and plants, another very popular topic in this discipline.

So the best place to find both themes is, of course, places like parks and gardens (if it’s a botanical garden, better than a botanical garden).

But, of course, it’s not always the best time for these environments.

In fact, as you can imagine, the best seasons to find these elements at their best are spring and summer, when good temperatures make insects active and plants sprout and flower.

Therefore, the ideal time to look for them is when the outside temperature is above fifteen degrees (approx.).

When it’s cold, plants are much less attractive and insects are much scarcer, although if you can locate them in their resting places (which is usually very difficult) you can photograph them more easily because they stay still longer.

For all these reasons, photographers specializing in this discipline choose to get up early in the spring and early summer to try to “hunt” insects when they are not very active.

By the way, if you’re wondering whether it’s better to have a sunny day or a cloudy day, usually the second option is better because the light is much softer, but it’s up to you to take advantage of any opportunity, no matter what the weather is like.

Choose the right shutter speed

As you can imagine, in macro photography it is very easy for the image to be spoiled by our pulse when holding the camera or any small vibration that occurs in the subject to be photographed.

Therefore it is crucial to use a high shutter speed, especially if you are a beginner.

As a general rule, you should always shoot above a value of 1/250 sec, although whether you will use flash depends on how fast you sync up.

Moreover, in that case, we can also shoot below that value as the flash will help to freeze the movement.

In fact, we can even take relatively long exposures (e.g. 1/30 sec) to make sure that the background of the image appears in sufficient light and the subject is as sharp as expected thanks to the flash.

Of course, that will require some mastery of the flash shooting technique, so it’s best to start by shooting at a high speed and, as you gain experience, gradually lower the shutter speed in combination with the use of flash.

No fear of using the flash

Undoubtedly, the illumination is crucial in this kind of pictures since, as we said before, in order to avoid any trepidation, we will have to shoot at high shutter speeds and use closed diaphragms to have a certain level of depth of field.

That’s why we often have to resort to the use of flash, especially to portray insects, even though as we know it’s an artificial light and often not very controllable.

Of course it’s ideal to have some sort of flash specifically for macro photography (there are quite affordable solutions like this from Polaroid), but even the built-in pop-up flash on your camera can work well to provide extra light to enhance the photo and help avoid a blurry image.

However, if you are going to use a non-specialist, two fundamental measures should be taken.

The first is to use it as a fill flash to prevent the image background from being underexposed and lacking in detail; the second is to use a diffuser, i.e.

any white, translucent material that, placed between the flash and the subject, can soften the strong light from the flash.

Manual or automatic focus?

Traditionally, it has always been recommended to discard the automatic focus directly, but as we count it is sometimes a good alternative to achieve shots of fast-moving subjects, such as insects in their most active phases, especially if we have some of the latest models that have highly refined monitoring approaches.

For almost all other situations it is usually better to use manual focus, learn how to use it quickly and correctly (practice, as you know, is very important) and make use of the tools that help us to do so, such as focus peaking.

Tripod, yes or no?

Another element that is normally recommended but should not be taken literally.

Logically, if we are talking about achieving maximum sharpness in a complicated shot, it is clear that the tripod should be a recurrent element but, once again, it depends on the situation.

For example, in the case we mentioned in the previous section (i.e.

photographing insects in full activity) the use of a tripod is not at all recommended.

Think that the time you waste placing it may be enough for the insect in question to decide to fly somewhere else.

It’s even possible that it won’t, but no matter how little wind there is, the flower on which it has landed will move just enough to make the photo come out cliffhanger anyway.

That’s why, unless you’re shooting a completely static scene, such as something inanimate in a studio, using a tripod isn’t always the best thing in macro photography.

Watch out for depth of field

As we have already mentioned, when shooting from very close we will almost always be shooting in situations where the depth of field is very low.

This can make it very difficult to get the picture we want, even a small movement on our part can cause the focus to shift from the right place.

To avoid this, of course, we can use a tighter diaphragm (such as ƒ11 or ƒ22) that expands the depth of field whenever the light conditions allow it, and there are also more complicated techniques (and not suitable for all situations) such as using image stacking.

Although the best strategy is to use depth intelligently, for example by photographing flat elements in a perspective that makes your whole body the same distance from the focal plane.

Of course, we can also draw on the opposite resource, using the scarcity of depth of field as a creative resource.

A good example is the typical photo of an insect whose head is in focus and protrudes from a completely blurred background.

Eye on perspective When making macro photographs, as in many other disciplines, it is important to take care of the perspective from which we photograph.

A very typical mistake of the beginner photographer is to take the pictures from above at an approximate angle of 45 degrees to the insect or flower.

This perspective is not bad, but it will probably result in a rather conventional photo and therefore may be boring.

That’s why it’s convenient to look for less common angles and shoot for unusual perspectives (from below, from behind…).

For this it is very useful to take advantage of the drop-down screen that many of today’s cameras have, which helps to achieve this and also to avoid, for example, having to lie on the ground to achieve a counterbalanced shot.

Look for a good composition

If you are new to macro photography, the more you can enlarge it, the more satisfied you will be with the result.

Making the insect in the photo appear larger is not always the way to improve the image.

In fact, it’s easy for you to get a little further away and get a prettier or more interesting shot, and even if the “bug” in question looks smaller, it may be better represented in its natural environment.

Of course, macro photography is not free from the need for correct composition to make the image work and, in particular, it is very important to be careful with the background.

So you know, take great care with the composition so that the photo works beyond its more or less interesting content.

And with this we have finished with our tricks to dare with the macro photography but, as always, we resort to you to complement the article with your tricks experienced in your photo sessions.

7  More beginner tips for Macro Photography

When the weather is good, there is no shortage of people wanting to take pictures, especially when you know that nature is an inexhaustible source of subjects that are just waiting to be highlighted.

Macro photography is a fascinating practice that immerses you in another world, but to succeed in making beautiful macro photos, it’s not that simple, especially if you’re new to this field.

In this article, I will give you some advice that I hope will help you to improve your images during your next nature walks.

Choose the right growth ratio

Before talking about equipment, you should understand that the term macro, super macro or hyper macro refers to the ability to photograph a subject at its actual size, in other words, at a minimum ratio of 1:1.

For example, if the subject you want to take a picture of measures one centimeter, it will have the same size on your camera’s sensor.

With a magnification ratio of 2:1, this same subject will have a height of 2cm.

Depending on the type of equipment used, these ratios can vary from 1:1 to 10:1.

Beyond that, we talk about photomicrograph.

If, on the other hand, this ratio is below the actual size of the subject, i.e.

between 1:1 and 1:10, then we no longer speak of macrophotography but of proxiphotography, in other words, close-up photography.

This one is too often confused with real macro photography.

If you would like to know the solutions to go beyond the 1:1 ratio, I refer you to one of my articles on macro photography equipment.

Look into the right light

Generally speaking in photography, it is imperative to have good light at the time of shooting to obtain quality images.

When you do macro photography in natural light, it’s the same.

Avoid photographing when the sun is too strong, especially when it is at its highest in the sky, because its light causes hard, sharp shadows.

In addition, some insects or even flowers react badly to this too violent light.

It causes overexposure in some places that are not very flattering.

I advise you to photograph when the sun is first shining and at the end of the day, in order to obtain a soft and warm light.

You can add a reflector to add light and create relief, or use a diffuser to blur shadows and achieve uniformity throughout the image.

If you still want to do macro photography in the middle of the day, find a shady but bright enough corner, otherwise wait for clouds to cover the sky.

They will act as a gigantic light-diffusing veil, creating softer shadows.

But that’s not so much the problem, because in macro photography, light is scarce.

Indeed, the higher the magnification ratio is, and therefore the closer you are to the subject, the faster the light decreases, especially when the light conditions are not bright enough, and even more so when using small aperture stops.

We’ll see more about that a little further down.

To compensate for this loss of light and solve this problem, you have several solutions.

  • Use a large aperture to let as much light through as possible.
  • Increase the exposure time to let in as much light as possible.
  • Increase the sensitivity of your camera.
  • Use one or more flashes, to use as main lighting or simply to cast shadows.

Next, it is necessary to find the most opportune moment to do macro photography.

Insects are generally more active and therefore more fearful when the ambient temperature is high.

that makes it harder to take pictures of them.

I strongly advise you to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon so that these little beasts are more inclined to pose more easily.

This will give you the freedom to arrive on the scene without frightening your suitors.

As for your dress code, it must be impeccable.

That is to say, it must be an integral part of the environment in which you are.

Yes, in nature, we must blend in with the environment so as not to frighten the animals.

This trick will increase your chances of photographing them discreetly.

The art of camouflage in macro photography is one of the keys to success in taking pictures in good conditions.

Learn how to manage depth of field in macrophotography

The difficulty of obtaining a large area of sharpness in macro photography is real, especially when the reproduction ratio is high.

Your camera’s sensor also plays a role in the concept of depth management, because the larger it is, the shallower the range of sharpness will be.

This will also depend on the focal length used.

If it is short, for example for a 50mm macro, the depth of field will be greater and vice versa.

The other parameter that influences the sharpness area is, of course, the aperture of the diaphragm.

In macro, the depth of field is very short, of the order of a few millimetres.

It’s a difficulty to which you’ll face at the beginning because you have to have your eyes in front of the holes.

To begin with, I advise you to opt for small openings, starting with F/8.

Some cameras are equipped with a depth of field tester.

By pressing the button assigned to it, it allows the diaphragm to be closed at its actual value so that the sharpness area can be viewed without the need to trigger.

To get more pleasure out of your images, don’t hesitate to use large apertures, this will promote a softer and more harmonious blur.

But beware, you will not be able to make a mistake about the narrowness of the depth of field.

Take care of your framing, composition and background.

A successful macro photo also lies in the care of the rules of composition and framing.

The most basic rule in photography is the rule of thirds.

Placing your subject on one of the golden points or lines of force works very well in macro, so don’t hesitate to use them.

But one can also deviate from the rule and put one’s subject in the center of the image when the magnification ratio is important, in order to show the symmetrical aspect of a subject.

A particular case using the Focus Stacking technique but which deserves to demonstrate this rendering.

Play with diagonals, lines and curves to create dynamism and make sure you place your subject on a point of strength, the impact will be even stronger in the picture.

You will find many twigs and other foliage to easily include in your compositions.

The reading direction of a photo is essential because it guides the eye to the main subject.

Avoid shooting your subjects from above (although this may work in some situations), but try to shoot from their height instead.

The shooting angle is also very important in macro photography.

Remember that the depth of field is parallel to your camera’s sensor.

Then remember to tilt your camera to manage the blurred and sharp part.

In macrophotography, it is necessary to be reactive, and naturally applying these recommendations will lead to the following results certainly to successful images.

But there is still one point that should not be overlooked, and that is the background.

When you start in this field, you get too absorbed in your subject and forget to look around.

To keep the aesthetics of a bokeh, it is necessary to remove the disturbing elements while respecting the environment.

I’m not lecturing you, but for me it’s inconceivable to pull anything out because the background is not uniform enough.

Just remember that the background must not be a neutral background without relief.

There must be shades, colours, shadows and light.

Your background must be harmonious without appearing bland or overloaded.

It’s up to you to find the right compromise

Don’t neglect the focus

As we have seen, in macro photography, the depth of field is very small as the magnification is large.

Therefore, focusing is tricky to do and must be precise within a relatively narrow sharpness range.

To achieve perfect focus, I strongly recommend that you disengage the autofocus to switch to manual mode.

The objective is not to turn the focus ring as many beginner macro photographers do in this case.

Understand that this is not a practical solution.

The right technique to adopt is to first choose a magnification ratio, then slowly advance towards the subject and finally reach the sharpness zone.

Slowly approaching and receding slowly will allow you to quickly bring a subject into sharp focus.

There’s also an accessory that can make it easier for you when shooting with a tripod.

It’s the micrometer rail.

In macro photography, stability must be your priority.

When you’re shooting macro photography, you need to be comfortable and stable, as you’ll often be forced to take uncomfortable ground positions.

Shutter speed is a parameter that must be taken into account to ensure a sharp, hand-held picture and avoid blurred motion blur.

The exposure time must be fast enough to freeze the movement.

Then check that it is proportional to the focal length used.

To aim and focus correctly with your hands, I suggest you hold your camera properly.

No kidding, are you telling me It is still good to remember that you must support your goal with your left hand and that your elbows must be well pressed against you.

There is a simple, terribly effective and inexpensive way to stabilize all your photographic equipment.

It’s the string technique.

Simply wrap it around your lens and then stretch it out to under your foot.

Maintained under tension, it guarantees you a very effective stability when you are standing.

If you are photographing at ground level, the proper position is to lie down with your elbows.

Alternatively, you can also buy or make a support to put your camera down, such as the bean bag or the very effective rice bag.

The use of the tripod in macro is strongly recommended.

In addition to providing excellent stability for your camera, it frees your hands, leaving you free to place lights if needed.

This stable support gives you the enormous advantage of being able to work at low sensitivities and therefore at slow speeds.

But remember that it is strongly recommended to add a micrometer rail (I come back to this later in the article), because without it, the tripod is not really practical to use, unlike other photo uses.

For even more flexibility, I advise you to use a tripod with a tilting column.

It makes it easier to direct the camera towards the subject and vary the framing quickly while ensuring perfect stability for all your photographic equipment.

If you don’t have a photo tripod yet, I invite you to see my article on “how to choose a tripod”.

To facilitate transport and reduce the clutter during your walks, take a mini tripod.

It must be strong enough to support the weight of your equipment.

Beware of the wind and be patient

If you’ve never practiced macro photography, you’ll soon realize that wind is the number one enemy in macro photography.

He can quickly ruin a photo shoot and make you leave with nothing to show for it.

Be aware of this and use tricks to counter it.

So, a good advice, check for wind before going to do some macro photography.

Apart from that, and if you really want to get good macro pictures, the key word is patience.

Some insects, butterflies and other dragonflies are shy and can quickly flee at the thought of seeing a moving mass in front of them.

That’s why your movements shouldn’t be too abrupt on approach.

So take the time to observe and move slowly.

Best online Classes about Macro Photography

https://www.creativelive.com/class/macro-photography-insects-and-plant-life-chris-mcginnis
https://www.creativelive.com/class/beyond-macro-photography-into-the-microscopic-world-charles-krebs

Now Your Turn

Now I would like to know, do you have any question ?

Or maybe do you have some information to add ?

Either way, let me know in the comments below

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